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      栏目导航 当前位置网站首页>>评论: 西南财经大学现代远程教育2009年秋季招生简章
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    大理之谜
◆李松
以前并不知道有大理这个地方,只知道大理石,似画非画,云山雾水,煞是好看。这次来大理,更觉得大理如同大理石一般,尽在云雾之中,半遮半掩,一步一谜。
我去过许多地方,大多没有谜,来龙去脉,交代得清清楚楚。只有湖南的湘西,四川的三星堆,江西的龙虎山,还有西藏,有着许多让人看不清弄不懂的地方,留下了一个又一个的谜团,没有答案,如坠神秘的深谷。
云南大理远离中原,又有千山万水阻隔,真可谓天高皇帝远,当年考子进京考试要走上3个月。大理被中原人视为荒蛮之地,它的历史、文化、宗教和习俗几乎不被人所知,故留下了许多费解之谜。
在剑川城附近有一个石钟山石窟,至今已有千年历史,其价值极高,被誉为“西南敦煌”。我在这里见到了第一个谜。在第八号石窟有一石龛,正中雕刻着女性生殖器,龛内左右两壁阴线刻有两尊佛,龛外雕刻着两大天王守护。生殖器崇拜倒也不稀罕,在国内国外都见过。但把生殖器与佛摆在一起,而且还分出了主次,让佛守护生殖器,倒是平生第一次见到。让我费解的不仅是如此突兀的“混搭”,还有时间上的“错配”。生殖器崇拜一般出现在原始社会,而佛教进入云南大理在7世纪,这中间相差了数千年,把这两样摆在一起,如同一次千年穿越,无异于秦始皇兵马俑正在摆弄4G手机。
大理是一个佛教盛行之地,历史上有数位大理国的国王出家为僧。在大理信奉的是阿吒力教,它是佛教密宗、印度教、道教和当地本主信仰的一种混合体,自成一体,不属于任何一种教。阿吒力教只在大理盛行,中原闻所未闻。至今专家对阿吒力教的脉络仍梳理不清,众说纷纭。与中原的佛教不同,阿吒力教供奉的是观音,叫阿嵯耶观音,观音的形象也大不相同。中原的观音法相庄严,安详沉稳,开炼机水温机;而大理的观音被称为细腰观音,修长苗条,婀娜多姿。在大理寺院中居次席的是大黑天,大黑天是印度教中的护法,面色黝黑,南京电加热导热油锅炉价格,威猛狰狞,在中原是见不到的,想不到在大理扎下了根。
佛教产生于印度,从汉代开始,从三路相继传入中国,分别是南传上座部佛教进入西双版纳一带,汉传佛教进入中原,藏传佛教进入藏区。除了藏传佛教与当地苯教有所融合,其他都是原汁原味,脉络清晰。而阿吒力教则是因地制宜,大加改造,银川导热油炉价格,为己所用。也许说明了当地的主流文化十分强势,顺我者,用之;不顺我者,滨州油锅炉,改之;逆我者,拒之。阿吒力教流传下来的资料甚少,许多东西说不清楚,留下了难以解释的谜团。
众所周知,在大陆解放的前夕,有一批珍贵文物被带到了台湾,其中有一件礼佛图长卷,被视为台湾博物院的镇院之宝。该图是大理国白族画工张胜温所画,有16米多长,有628个人物,由于南诏国、大理国500多年的历史没有文字史记可考,所以通过该图可以了解当时的宗教、文化、习俗等,弥足珍贵。礼佛图不仅有着极高的文物价值,而且艺术价值也登峰造极,可与宋代张择端的《清明上河图》媲美,故被称为南北双骄。我在大理见到了礼佛图的复制品,颇感困惑。张择端画出《清明上河图》并不意外,中原文化博大精深,源远流长,张择端不过是一个优秀的传承者。而大理偏西南于一隅,与中原文化隔绝,既无传授之老师,也无交流之氛围,说白了,既无沃土,也无雨露,贫瘠的土地上陡然长出了一棵参天大树。在张胜温之后,也再没有出现过像他那样的圣手和佳作,张生真个是前无古人,后无来者,从天而降一般。这完全不符合一般规律,然而又是硬邦邦的事实,令人好生奇怪,不是谜又是什么!
我老早就知道当今最出名的是东阳木雕,到了大理才知道,剑川木雕竟与东阳木雕齐名。《五朵金花》中阿鹏有一句唱词是“祖孙三代是铁匠”。其实应该是“祖孙三代是木匠”。只不过拍电影时正值大炼钢铁,歌词为了应景。剑川是有悠久传统的“木匠之乡”,擅长木雕,他们的木雕在北京故宫和承德避暑山庄中都可以见到。
我亲眼目睹了剑川木雕的木窗和摆件,以花鸟图案为主,刀工精细至极,透雕多达七八层,令人惊叹,疑为天人所***。其实明清时剑川木雕多是用于木窗和建筑构件上。我参观过剑川的古民居,不仅都是榫卯结构,且木雕精美。东阳在浙江,中国的传统文化精品多出自浙江,再加上一个木雕,锦上添花而已,并不奇怪。而剑川白族的民居却有着如此典雅精致的审美取向,有着如此高超的木雕技法,实在是令人费解。中国少数民族的民居大多简陋粗放,难与中原的民居相提并论,而剑川的白族民居独树一帜,着实令人刮目相看。与圣手张胜温相似,剑川木雕也像是从天上掉下来的。
在大理,村村寨寨都有本主庙,本主各不相同,有的本主是佛,有的是神,有的是历史人物,有的是神话人物,有的是一段木头,有的是一块石头。本主统管本村寨的阴间阳间万般事物,人们则大事小事都要向本主汇报,求本主保佑。这种本主崇拜我在其他地方没有见过,但这种一个神明保一方平安的方式,有点像是内地的城隍,但是城隍都是有名有姓的真人,不似这般五花八门。
陪着我参观的董老师见我一头雾水,就对我说,不能用中原文化来套大理的白族文化,越套越糊涂,大理文化自成一脉。董老师点醒了我。有一位专家说过,中国传统文化不是一支蜡烛,而是满天繁星。
在银河中,满天星斗在眨着神秘的眼睛,大理就是其中的一颗星。
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